Stilton with Jane Austen -- Illegal cheese (or, the cheeses we met in France found us tolerable) -- Tastes of Formaggio -- A tomme at Twig Farm -- Foggy -- The hurricane and the Vacherin -- Little Chute, Wisconsin (or, "We don't have all that waxy stuff like Illinois") -- The whiteness in the whey -- Stink -- Raw-milk, nonindustrial, tradition-rich cheeses of the world, unite! -- Feeling cheesy -- Up the mont, to the fort -- Chuck's picks.