Cover image for Ice & mixed climbing : modern technique
Ice & mixed climbing : modern technique
Gadd, Will, 1967-
Personal Author:
First edition.
Publication Information:
Seattle : Mountaineers Books, [2003]

Physical Description:
240 pages : color illustrations ; 22 cm.
General Note:
Includes index.
Gear -- Dress and eat for success -- Basic ice climbing -- Anchors, belaying, and leading -- Descending -- Advanced ice techniques -- Leading and protecting mixed routes -- Mixed climbing -- Moving in the mountains in winter -- Systems for survival -- Training for winter climbing.
Subject Term:
Added Author:
Electronic Access:
Table of contents
Format :


Call Number
Material Type
Home Location
Item Holds
GV200.3 .G33 2003 Adult Non-Fiction Non-Fiction Area

On Order



* Will Gadd is an ESPN X Games and Ice World Cup winner* There are 1.1 million ice climbers in the U.S. (Outdoor Industry Association, 2001)* Seventh installment in The Mountaineers Outdoor Expert series"Mixed climbing is my favorite discipline. It's the most fun because it has the fewest rules-sort of like professional wrestling compared to boxing." So says Will Gadd, as profiled in Fifty Favorite Climbs. Here the champion ice climber presents the same techniques and veteran wisdomhe imparts to those who attend his annual clinics. These include step-by-step instructions for the swing (ice axe), the kick (footwork), and putting it all together (tracking); how to "read" ice to select your line and follow it safely; and drytool techniques for mixed climbing. Training exercises and inspirational stories complete this seminal guide. Will Gadd won every major ice competition in the world in 1998 and 1999, as well as the 2000 Ice World Cup. A resident of Canmore, Alberta, hehas written for Climbing and Rock & Ice, among other publications. Roger Chayer's photos have appeared in Rock & Ice, Climbing, Gripped, Equinox, and the Alpine Club of Canada Journal. He lives in Calgary, Alberta. Part of the Mountaineers Outdoor Expert series.

Author Notes

Will Gadd has established hundreds of new ice and hard mixed routes from Iceland to Chile; he has also won numerous international competitions and the ice climbing world cup. A resident of Canmore, Alberta, he has written for Climbing, Rock & Ice, Outside, and many other publications

Table of Contents

Kim CsizmaziaBarry BlanchardScott SempleRaphael SlawinskiWill GaddRob Owens
Acknowledgmentsp. 8
Prefacep. 9
Chapter 1 Gear
Ice Toolsp. 14
Bootsp. 23
Shopping for Ice Gearp. 35
Pick Maintenancep. 36
Chapter 2 Dress and Eat for Success
Technical Clothingp. 44
Surviving Long Belaysp. 46
Nutrition for Cold Climbingp. 48
Climb Ice!p. 51
Chapter 3 Basic Ice Climbing
Ice Formation: Understanding the Mediump. 58
Basic Crampon Skillsp. 64
Basic Ice Movementp. 65
Ice Gradesp. 84
Big Routes: Modern Tactics for Speed and Warmthp. 86
Chapter 4 Anchors, Belaying, and Leading
Belayingp. 92
Leading Icep. 98
Leading the Pitchp. 108
Barry Blanchard Whips Ice Climbingp. 114
Chapter 5 Descending
Descending the Pitchp. 118
Rap Anchorsp. 122
Cluster Luckp. 128
Chapter 6 Advanced Ice Techniques
Techniques for Steep Ice Climbingp. 134
Thin Icep. 138
Climbing Early Season Icep. 141
Free-hanging and Freestanding Icep. 142
Suffer Machine Fallp. 145
Chapter 7 Leading and Protecting Mixed Routes
Protectionp. 150
Creative Sling Usep. 155
Rope Managementp. 155
Boltsp. 156
Chapter 8 Mixed Climbing
Ethicsp. 161
Mixed Techniquep. 162
Drytoolingp. 166
Footworkp. 172
Movement Tricksp. 174
Getting on Iciclesp. 177
Techniques for Popular Mixed Routesp. 183
Chapter 9 Moving in the Mountains in Winter
Vehiclesp. 187
Snowshoes and Skisp. 188
Chapter 10 Systems for Survival
Avalanchesp. 192
Bivyingp. 197
Accidents and Rescuesp. 199
A Lessonp. 203
Chapter 11 Training for Winter Climbing
Periodizationp. 206
Specific Adaptation to Imposed Demandp. 207
Effective Trainingp. 208
Training Schedulesp. 209
Specific Exercisesp. 211
The Golden Rulep. 229