Cover image for The way of the surfer : living it, 1935 to tomorrow
The way of the surfer : living it, 1935 to tomorrow
Kampion, Drew.
Personal Author:
First edition.
Publication Information:
New York : Harry N. Abram, [2003]

Physical Description:
192 pages : illustrations (some color) ; 27 cm
General Note:
Includes index.
Subject Term:

Format :


Call Number
Material Type
Home Location
Item Holds
GV840.S8 .K37 2003 Adult Non-Fiction Non-Fiction Area

On Order



Illustrated with photography of exotic surfing paradises around the world, surf writer Drew Kampion's book is a short history of surfing worldwide and a fascinating journey into the lives of 13 of the most important surfers.

Reviews 2

Publisher's Weekly Review

This full-color, coffee-table paean to surfing focuses on the surfing lifestyle. After his introduction, "Walking on Water," Kampion, former editor-in-chief of Surfer magazine, compiles profiles of such wave-riding greats as Woody Brown-the New York City-born surfer who pursued waves and freedom in Makaha, Hawaii-and Florida-born Kelly Slater, today's "Best Surfer in the World." Tucked within the profiles are short pieces such as "Chaos and Anarchy," which discuss the rules of the surfer. In all, the book is a beautiful melding of narrative and photos-there are black and white photos from the early 1900s, when men and women would use redwood planks, and color snapshots of 1960s crowded California beaches with the waves rising beyond. Kampion captures the sport's rise in popularity for women, beginning with a two-page spread of a misty California beach for the 1964 San Clemente Surf Capades, to New School Grrrls, with world class champions Megan Abubo and Lisa Anderson. While this volume contains fewer pictures of breathtaking waves than most surfing glossies (nonetheless, it does include many), the photos and essays make for a wonderful history of the sport. (Oct.) Copyright 2003 Reed Business Information.

Library Journal Review

Kampion, a former editor of Surfer and the author of two other surfing books, has written a colorful salute to the history of surfing, focusing on long biographical profiles of 11 greats of the sport, including recent stars Lisa Andersen and Kelly Slater. The format features first a chapter introducing a surfing concept, such as competition, board sculpting, and surf culture, followed by a profile of someone who embodies that concept. While the book contains great historical photos and newer, bold colorful images, it is not just a collection of pictures. The text contains essays that read more like long poems in tribute to surfing, which one will want to read slowly and enjoy. Recommended for large sports collections and for public libraries where surfing is popular.-Christina Hennessey, Loyola Marymount Univ. Lib., Los Angeles (c) Copyright 2010. Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.