Cover image for Patternmaking : a comprehensive reference for fashion design
Patternmaking : a comprehensive reference for fashion design
Rosen, Sylvia, 1931-
Personal Author:
Publication Information:
Upper Saddle River, NJ : Pearson Prentice Hall, [2004]

Physical Description:
xii, 628 pages : illustrations ; 28 cm
Format :


Call Number
Material Type
Home Location
Item Holds
TT520 .R7847 2004 Adult Non-Fiction Non-Fiction Area-Oversize

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Written by a seasoned professional Fashion Designer, this comprehensive reference covers all the technical aspects of developing precise professional patterns for garments. The focus throughout is on the procedures and principles of professional flat patternmaking using Basic Slopes (i.e., Pattern Blocks, Master Patterns, or Foundation Patterns), and on cutting and testing each completed pattern in tissue, pinned on the form completely marked. The exceptionally clear and visually detailed illustrations can easily be understood by readers without having to read the accompanying text. All the patterns diagrammed are shown in the exact stages and sequence of development--from plot to completion--including all necessary markings, such as punch holes, notches, seams, and grain lines.All About Patterns. Introduction to Pattern Making. CAD. Preparing the Form for Measurement. Drafting Basic Slopers from Measurements. All About Slopers. Sub-Sloper Development. Dart Manipulation: Pivot and Slash (Bodices; Skirts; Sleeves; Collars: Concave, Convex, and Straight; Flat and Stand Variations; Sleeve Bodice Combinations: Fitted and Deep Armhole Variations; Shirt; Suit-Coat; Capes and Hoods; Pant--Culotte-Shorts; Jumpsuits; and Dresses). Garment Details--Construction and Finishing (Buttons and Buttonholes; Seam Finishes; Hem Finishes; Buttons, Hooks and Eyes, Snaps; Basting Stitches). Figure Analysis: Bodytypes. Overview of the Fashion Industry.For fashion design students, professional designers, and anyone in the business of fashion design, regardless of their level of expertise.

Author Notes

Sylvia Rosen has 35 years of industry experience as a Designer, Design Director, and Merchandiser, working and commuting to New York from her native Philadelphia. She was employed by industry leaders including Jordache, Members Only, John Henry, Haggar, Devon Apparel, and Andover Togs; traveling to the Orient for many years, working with buyers from major chains and stores. Ms. Rosen ran her own company in New York, where she designed and manufactured an upscale collection of girls' pre-teen, jr. dresses and sportswear. These sold to better department and specialty stores and boutiques. Simultaneously, Ms. Rosen has for 28 years been an instructor at Parsons School of Design in New York, where she currently continues to teach fashion design students. She is also an Adjunct Associate Professor in Design and Merchandising at Drexel University, Philadelphia, and a freelance consultant and technical designer in New York.



This text will take students who have never made a pattern or sewn a garment through the steps from concept to completion. This book's objective is to enable beginners through intermediate students to develop a proficiency and understanding of the procedures and principles used in pattern-making, using the methodology taught and tested in the classroom. Focusing on one section of a garment at a time--the bodice, sleeve, collar, skirt, and pant--students will learn to combine and interchange pattern pieces using information absorbed in each previous lesson. The patterns selected for this text are not meant, at this stage, to make a fashion statement. Rather, they represent design challenges that are a learning tool for manipulating patterns, using pivot and slash, and the integration of both methods. These principles can be applied to garments currently in style. Upon completion, all patterns should be trued, traced, and cut in yellow tissue paper, pinned, and tested. This enables students to develop their vision working with a two-dimensional flat pattern translated to a three-dimensional pattern pinned and fitted on the dress form. All patterns should be checked for fit, balance, position, and shape of style lines, and accuracy of matching notches and grain lines, and necessary corrections should be made. Patterns are pinned together in the same manner as a style that has been draped. Thus the relationship between patternmaking and draping can be understood. Every garment that is draped must also be corrected, trued, and transferred to pattern paper before it can be cut into fabric and sewn. Patternmahing: A Comprehensive Reference for Fashion Design is divided into 18 chapters covering patternmaking and information related to fashion and design. A brief description of each chapter follows. Chapters 4 through 7 make up Patternmaking 1, while Chapters 8 through 18 make up Patternmaking 2. Chapter 1 introduces patterns--showing dress forms in various positions--plus tools, pattern terminology, and basic rules. Chapter 2 is an introduction to drafting basic sets of slopers and pants by measuring the dress form. Diagrams illustrate adding ease to basic slopers, trueing, and blending shapes and lines. Chapter 3 shows quarter-size and half-size dopers; basic sets in both sizes plus raglan, kimono-dolman variations, shirt, torso, and pants. These can be traced to card stock, cut out, and used for developing practice patterns in the classroom. PATTERNMAKING 1 Chapter 4: Bodices; introduction to dart manipulation, pivot and slash methods. Chapter 5: Collar and neckline variations and facings. Chapter 6: Short sleeves gathered and puffed, using the slash method. Chapter 7: A-line to full-circle skirts, pleated and flared godets. PATTERNMAKING 2 Chapter 8: Revere and shawl collar bodices, sleeves and facings. Chapter 9: Raglan, drop shoulders, kimono, dolman, batwing variations. Chapter 10: Shirts and sleeves and the basic structure for their development. Chapter 11: Collars; One- and two-piece shirt collars, bow tie, and turtle neck. Chapter 12: Shirt sleeve variations, plackets, and long sleeve styles. Chapter 13: Skirts with flounces, tiers, pegged, and sarong. Chapter 14: Drafting a circular cape and hood. Chapter 15: Converting dress to suit to coat torso slopers, plus one- and two-piece sleeves. These can be added to the quarter-size doper set. Chapter 16: Garment details, button chart, buttons, seams, hems, zippers. Chapter 17: Figure analysis and fashion silhouettes. Chapter 18: Flats, specs, points of measurement.Appendices: Style Terminology, Fabric Glossary, Trimming Terminology, Measurement Charts, and Metric Conversion Table. Although there are many ways to plot and make flat patterns, the instructions illustrated in this book are proven methods. They provide students with the necessary tools, concepts, and understanding to master this technical and precise discipline. This book will serve as a valuable tool, allowing readers to develop patterns for professional garments and function efficiently in a highly competitive industry. Sylvia Rosen Excerpted from Patternmaking: A Comprehensive Reference for Fashion Design by Sylvia Rosen All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.

Table of Contents

1 Introduction to Patterns and Patternmaking
What Is a Pattern?
What Is Patternmaking?
How Are Patterns Used?
Pattern Development
The Designer
History of Patterns and Patternmaking
Pattern and Design Terminology
Tools for Patternmaking
Supplies for Patternmaking
Basic Rules for Patterns
Preparing the Dress Form for Measurement
Different Forms for Different Functions
2 Introduction to Slopers
Front Measurements
Back Measurements
Skirt Measurements
Sleeve Measurements
Measurements for Pants
Measurements for Pants: Crotch
Style Lines for Pants
Measurements and Style Lines for Skirts
Drafting Basic Slopers from Measurements
Basic One-Piece Straight Sleeve Draft
Walking the Sleeve Around the Armhole
Adding Ease to Slopers
Basic Length Pants
Completing Patterns and Slopers
3 Slopers and Sub-Slopers
¼ Scale Slopers
½ Scale Slopers and Sub-Slopers
4 Introduction to Dart Manipulation
Basic Bodice
Bodices: Tucks
Bodice: Gathers and More
Bodice: Necklines
5 Necklines and Collars
Neck Facings. Collars
6 Short Sleeves
Short Sleeves (4" Below Biceps)
Short Sleeves with Raised and Gathered Caps
Short Petal Sleeves (One and Two Piece)
7 Skirts
Basic A-Line (Flared) Skirt
Circle Skirts
Godet Skirts
Six-Gore Skirts
8 Bodice and Sleeve Pattern
Revere Bodice with Three-Dart Short Sleeve
Short Kimono Sleeve
9 Sleeve/Bodice Combinations
Raglan Sleeves
Fitted Drop Shoulder Sleeves
Deep Armhole Drop Shoulder Sleeves
Kimono Sleeves with Gusset
Kimono/Dolman Sleeve Variations
Batwing Sleeves
10 Shirts
Shirt and Shirttail Hem
Action Sleeve with Roll-Up Cuff
Deep Armhole Raglan
Basic Raglan Shirt Sleeve and Variation
11 Collars
Shirt Collar
Bow Tie Collar
Turtleneck Collar
12 Sleeves
Long Straight Sleeve to One-Dart Shaped Sleeve
Set-In Sleeves
13 Skirts
Skirt Shapes
Skirt Styles and Patterns
14 Capes and Hoods
15 Torso Slopers
Torso Slopers
Patterns for Torso Slopers
16 Garment Details
Buttons and Buttonholes
Seam, Hem, and Sewing Stitches
Snaps and Zippers
17 Figure Analysis
Body Shapes
Basic Silhouettes and Shapes Used for Apparel Designs
18 The Fashion Industry
Fashion Personnel
The Manufacturing Process
Flats and Specs