Cover image for East of Paris : the new cuisines of Austria and the Danube
Title:
East of Paris : the new cuisines of Austria and the Danube
Author:
Bouley, David.
Personal Author:
Edition:
First edition.
Publication Information:
New York : Ecco, [2003]

©2003
Physical Description:
346 pages : illustrations (chiefly color) ; 27 cm
General Note:
Includes index.
Language:
English
Subject Term:
ISBN:
9780066214498
Format :
Book

Available:*

Library
Call Number
Material Type
Home Location
Status
Central Library TX721 .B67 2003 Adult Non-Fiction Non-Fiction Area
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Summary

Summary

David Bouley, universally praised as one of the best chefs cooking today, has written his first cookbook, a cause for celebration. Along with Chef Mario Lohninger and Melissa Clark, he shares his recipes from Austria and other regions of the Danube in a stunning, beautifully illustrated, one-of-a-kind cookbook.

East of Paris is a cookbook that embraces Austrian culture, lifestyle and cuisine as interpreted by Chef David Bouley. Universally praised as one of the best chefs cooking today, Bouley, in collaboration with Executive Chef Mario Lohninger, has adapted and lightened Austrian cuisine, introducing innovative cooking techniques to indigenous ingredients and classic regional dishes. This cuisine, along with some traditional recipes and those by some of Austria's most celebrated chefs, is the basis for the book. It also explores the cultural significance of Austrian cuisine, both currently and historically, and how it plays a part in the rich recreational and sports tradition that Austria enjoys.


Author Notes

Melissa Clark is a staff writer for the New York Times where she writes the popular column "A Good Appetite," and stars in a weekly complementary video series. The winner of James Beard and IACP Awards, she is a regular on Today and NPR The Splendid Table, The Leonard Lopate Show. Melissa earned an MFA in writing from Columbia. (Publisher Provided)


Reviews 2

Booklist Review

When star chef David Bouley opened Danube, a Viennese restaurant in New York City, some questioned whether Austrian and Hungarian cooking really merited such high-end attention. Soon a reservation at Danube became one of the city's most sought-after prizes. Bouley, his associate chef Mario Lohninger, and food writer Melissa Clark have now documented the recipes that brought Danube such acclaim. In recipes and photographs, East of Paris lays bare what diners found so intriguing. Bouley's cuisine transcends typical Viennese fare of goulash and schnitzel. Oxtail strudel canapes wrap a common Austrian meat in familiar pastry to produce an original dish. But many of Bouley's dishes seem far from anything Austrian--crab-filled avocado dumplings contain no distinctively central European ingredients save salt and sour cream. Lobster frequently appears, as do Southeast Asian ingredients on the order of lemongrass. A work of invention and imagination, East of Paris appeals chiefly to the restaurant's many devotees, but only expert chefs will likely find success with the complex recipes. --Mark Knoblauch Copyright 2003 Booklist


Publisher's Weekly Review

This collection of dishes from motorcycle-riding chef David Bouley's Danube in lower Manhattan falls in the category of challenging. A note accompanying a recipe for Grostl of Maine Lobster with Veal Ravioli, Fresh Peas, and Lemon Shallots calls it "labor-intensive to make at home, but not difficult," then provides a three-day schedule for producing the various components. Lengthy lists of ingredients are the norm in recipes for hearty fare such as Whole Roast Suckling Pig with White Wine-Braised Cabbage and Beef Cheek Goulash with Potato Puree. A recipe for Duck and Cabbage Sausages calls for rendered duck fat and sausage casings, as well as two kinds of sesame seeds. As Bouley explains in an introduction that recounts his career, this is in no way meant to be traditional Austrian fare or even fusion. Instead, it represents his imagining of "what the cuisine of Austria would be if the Austro-Hungarian Empire were still extant." Imperial dreams aside, this is food that takes the simple, sometimes heavy favorites of Austria to rarefied heights, resulting in concoctions such as Venison Strudel with Plum Jam, Chestnuts and Brussels Sprouts. Chapters are arranged by season, with Whole Roasted Foie Gras with Cherries suggested for summertime. A concluding chapter offers "signature dishes" such as Schlutzkrapfen (Austrian Cheese Ravioli with Harvest Corn and Smoked Mushrooms). As is to be expected in the face of a strong Austrian influence, desserts, such as Bohemian Plum Pancakes for fall, are a highlight here, if predictably complex: a recipe for Apple Strudel includes excellent detailed instructions and suggests that it will take two people to execute them. (Nov.) Forecast: This is yet another beautifully produced restaurant cookbook that will likely confound any but the most intrepid home cooks. The Austrian influence is unique, however, and Bouley is a big name due to his other eponymous restaurant. This is sure to make a splash, but unlikely to become a backlist classic. (c) Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved


Excerpts

Excerpts

East of Paris The New Cuisines of Austria and the Danube Beet Salad With Caraway and Walnut Oil Serves 4 to 6 as an appetizer or side dish 1 pound red BABY BEETS, trimmed 1 tablespoon CANOLA OIL 2 sprigs FRESH THYME 1 BAY LEAF, preferably fresh Fine SEA SALT and freshly ground BLACK PEPPER 1 teaspoon CARAWAY SEEDS 1/4 cup plus 2 teaspoons CHAMPAGNE VINEGAR 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons SUGAR, or to taste 6 tablespoons WALNUT OIL MICRO CRESS, mâche, or watercress leaves, for garnish Chopped WALNUTS, for garnish NOTES FROM THE KITCHEN The caraway here is a nice contrast to the beet's sweetness, as is the walnut oil, which has a slightly bitter note. This is a versatile salad that will go with practically anything as a side dish: meat, fish, pasta, or potatoes. For a substantial first course, you can add cheese: a goat cheese, fresh or aged, a nice granular aged Cheddar or Parmigiano-Reggiano, or even a blue cheese. Preheat the oven to 425°F. In an ovenproof dish, toss the beets with the canola oil, thyme, bay leaf, and salt and pepper. Cover the dish with aluminum foil and roast until the beets are tender and cooked through, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Meanwhile, make the dressing. Place 1 cup of water in a saucepan with the caraway seeds and bring to a boil. Take the pan off the heat and stir in the Champagne vinegar and sugar. Whisk in the walnut oil and season with salt and pepper. When the beets are cool enough to handle, slip off their skins and place them in a bowl. Pour the dressing over them and let marinate for at least 1 hour. Serve garnished with the cress and walnuts. DAVID BOULEY A lot of people think of beets as something that they had when they were kids that was pickled or served out of a can. And a lot of people don't understand that a good beet straight from the garden doesn't taste anything like that. A fresh beet, still with its greens attached, is tender and sweet, almost more like a fruit than a vegetable. It's not woody and tough or dry like a potato. It's beautiful. Beets are one of my favorite things, and I can say that I've loved them since I was seven or eight, when I first realized what vegetables were supposed to taste like. I was on a farm helping out during the harvest, which is what my family did in Connecticut every fall. After gathering the produce there was a big cookout, and all the root vegetables were wrapped in aluminum foil and roasted on an open fire. The beets got intensely sweet and I thought they were the best vegetables I'd ever had. This recipe shows off how simple and delicious a garden-fresh beet can be, so it's important to use baby beets that have been harvested within a few days of cooking. Yellowtail With Flat-Leaf Spinach Puree, Austrian Crescent Potatoes, Osetra Caviar, and Vodka Sauce SPINACH PUREE 3 tablespoons UNSALTED BUTTER 3 SHALLOTS, diced 1 teaspoon FINE SEA SALT 2 large GARLIC CLOVES, minced 1/2 cup HEAVY CREAM 1 sprig FRESH THYME 3/4 cup VEGETABLE STOCK 12 ounces (1 bunch) flat-leaf SPINACH, cleaned, stems removed to yield 6 ounces of leaves, or use 6 ounces baby spinach Freshly ground WHITE PEPPER CAYENNE PEPPER FRESHLY GRATED NUTMEG YELLOWTAIL 4 cups CANOLA OIL 8 GARLIC CLOVES, unpeeled 1 sprig FRESH THYME 1 BAY LEAF, preferably fresh 1 pound YELLOWTAIL TUNA FILLET, cut crosswise into 8 equal slices (about 2 ounces each) FINE SEA SALT and freshly ground WHITE PEPPER Poaching fish slowly and gently in oil firms and tightens the flesh without drying it. It's a favorite technique that David learned in Europe over a decade ago and has been perfecting ever since. In this recipe the buttery fish is served rather simply, with potato salad and a spinach puree that will be by far the best creamed spinach you've ever had. The four-star opulence comes from the vodka-caviar sauce, which can be as decadent as you like, depending upon how much and what kind of caviar you use. David likes to use Belvedere vodka here, but any premium brand will work. NOTES FROM THE KITCHEN You can skip the potato salad and serve this dish with boiled or steamed potatoes. To prepare the spinach puree, in a wide saucepan or high-sided sauté pan over medium high heat, melt the butter. Let the butter cook until the milk solids fall to the bottom and turn nut brown. Add the shallots and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes, until the shallots begin to soften. Add the garlic and continue to cook until the garlic and shallots are soft and cooked through, 2 minutes more. Add the cream and thyme to the pan and bring the liquid to a boil. Simmer until reduced by about one-third, 3 to 4 minutes. Pour in the vegetable stock and let the liquid return to a boil. Add the spinach to the cream-shallot mixture. Cook gently, stirring and tossing, until the spinach is wilted and tender, about 2 minutes. Remove the thyme. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the spinach to the bowl of a blender or food processor, reserving 1/2 cup of the liquid from the spinach. Puree the spinach and season with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt, white pepper, a pinch of cayenne, and nutmeg to taste. If necessary, add some of the reserved cooking liquid so the puree is just loose enough to pour. Keep warm. East of Paris The New Cuisines of Austria and the Danube . Copyright © by David Bouley. Reprinted by permission of HarperCollins Publishers, Inc. All rights reserved. Available now wherever books are sold. Excerpted from East of Paris: The New Cuisines of Austria and the Danube by David Bouley, Melissa Clark, Mario Lohninger All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.

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