Cover image for Recipes from home
Recipes from home
Page, David, 1958-
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Publication Information:
New York : Artisan, 2001.
Physical Description:
xv, 431 pages : illustrations ; 27 cm
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TX715 .P133 2001 Adult Non-Fiction Central Closed Stacks

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Home is "everything you could hope for in a quintessentially cozy Greenwich Village restaurant" (Food & Wine). With its "surprisingly fresh interpretations of Middle American dishes" (Christian Science Monitor), this "dreamy little all-American place" (New York) is, in fact, a home away from home.

New Yorkers line up outside for meals that have the power to rekindle food memories from childhood. Of course, with the deft hand of chef David Page, they now taste rather grown up. Tater Tots become cornmeal-crusted garlic potato cakes; picnic coleslaw made with celery and celery root accompanies spiced pork chops; blue cheese and apple transform a grilled cheese sandwich; and the ketchup is always homemade.

In this unabashed ode to American home cooking, you'll also find recipes for scalloped potatoes, macaroni and cheese, roast chicken, homemade pickles, chocolate pudding, and cookies "that would make anyone's front porch a neighborhood Mecca" (Gourmet).

Reviews 2

Booklist Review

Spring not only heralds the beginning of the new growing season, it also heralds the debut of a new crop of cookbooks. While some of these new offerings reflect the new season, most simply build on themes already dominant in the current world of cookbook publishing. Spring means planting seeds and harvesting the very earliest garden crops such as asparagus and chives. Pollard's Simply Grande Gardening Cookbook provides a guide to a whole year's worth of gardening with guidelines for propagation, preservation, and consumption of these fruits and vegetables. Based on her and her husband's experiences in community gardening in central Maine, the book catalogs the history, characteristics, planting season, and uses of dozens of garden items. Anyone throughout the northern states may productively use Pollard's encyclopedic guide, both for gardening and for cooking. Those still fascinated with the hunter-gatherer stage of food-creation development will relish the recipes for wild foods found in Mogelon's Wild in the Kitchen. Mogelon has combed America's roadsides for fiddleheads, morels, milkweed, chokecherries, hawthorns, nannyberries, and other comestibles that appear without cultivation. For most of these, preparation is simple, involving some cooking and sweetening. Others, such as Jerusalem artichokes, need extra attention, and some merely flavor everyday dishes as does wild mint in tabbouleh salad. As with all wild foods, accurate botanical identification is critical to prevent confusion with toxic species. The popularity of Italian cooking shows no signs of waning. Since many of this cuisine's products depend less on specialized cooking technique than on ingredient availability, it's an ideal cooking style for the home chef. Television cooking teacher Esposito's Ciao Italia is structured according to Italy's most important gastronomic regions. Beyond some often-appearing treats such as pork cooked in milk and a fine assortment of pastas, Esposito offers a recipe for mashed-potato-based pizza crust topped with Gorgonzola and sun-dried tomatoes. Her version of Neapolitan Easter pie calls for a sweet pastry stuffed with rice and ricotta cheese spiked with orange juice. Esposito's personality and enthusiasm for her subject shine through her work. With Michele Evans' assistance, the mother-daughter team of Wanda and Giovanna Tornabene has brought out a successor to their prize-winning volume of recipes from their popular Sicilian mountain inn, Gangivecchio. This time they feature Sicilian Home Cooking, foods they and their neighbors prepare for themselves. The new volume brings its share of surprises: vegetable tarts with fennel, artichokes, peas, and spinach, another with ricotta and hazelnuts; pasta with figs and pancetta; and a fish pie of cod and shrimp. Reflecting Sicily's proximity to North Africa, couscous has its own chapter. Those who cooked from the authors' first volume will want this one, too. Italy's near neighbor, Greece, has a long culinary tradition now enjoying renewed interest. Both the mainland and the Greek islands have distinctive regional differences in their politics and in their cooking, so Kochilas has organized her comprehensive book, The Glorious Foods of Greece, with those frontiers in mind. The cooking of the Peloponnesian peninsula conforms to what many people who've sampled the food served in America's Greek restaurants think of as Greek cooking. But in the north, where Greece fades into the former Yugoslavia, Macedonian food offers unique dishes based on wheat rather than rice. Kochilas distinguishes the cooking of the Greek islands, dividing them into subgroups to discuss their culinary specialties. Kochilas' recipes are clear, specific, and attractive. Exhaustively detailed and painstakingly researched, this volume belongs in every international cookery collection. Given today's requirements for energy conservation, the pressure cooker is poised for a comeback. It cooks foods quickly, consuming less gas or electricity than other ethods. Chavich has selected a list of The Best Pressure Cooker Recipes and gathered them in a single volume. Those who've never used a pressure cooker will delight in standard dishes such as Swedish meatballs and mushroom and barley soup. More adventuresome cooks may branch out into Jamaican chicken fricassee or Indian lamb rogan josh. Fish dishes and even risotto find a place in Chavich's recommendations for pressure cookery. Some may draw the line at preparing cheesecake in a pressure cooker, but it's good to know that Chavich says it can be done. Recipes conveniently list both American and metric measures. Except for those unfortunates who suffer from shellfish allergies, almost everyone dotes on shrimp. Only a century ago this crustacean was used mostly as bait. Now it's a dominant seafood and in high demand. Livingston has compiled Strictly Shrimp to bring together the principal dishes that shrimp fans most crave. Although he acknowledges that shrimp taste best freshly caught and quickly steamed whole, most of his recipes use standard supermarket frozen shrimp available nationwide. Thus, he offers Cajun specialties, Atlantic-shore recipes, and even Chicago's original shrimp de Jonghe. Livingston's recipes are so ultra-precise he even specifies "chicken eggs" lest anyone be tempted to use another variety. Self-conscious midwesterners seeking validation of their native cuisine by sophisticated New Yorkers can find it in Recipes from Home. Page and Shinn, from Wisconsin and Ohio respectively, have established a reputation for solid American cooking at their Greenwich Village restaurant. There they entice jaded New Yorkers with scalloped potatoes and macaroni and cheese from their parents' and grandparents' recipes. Although their grandmothers probably didn't employ the plethora of fresh herbs that the authors call for, the humble origins of many of these dishes are evident. Nevertheless, lamb sausage with mint and mustard, appetizing as it may appear, is something few midwestern kitchens ever dreamed of turning out. For genuine contemporary American home cooking, one need look no further than Bannister's Cook & Tell. This compilation of recipes from the author's cooking newsletter contains only the best of home cooking. She downplays prepackaged, processed foods, but she keeps recipes simple, flavorful, and attractive. Egg salad sandwiches get a few anchovies for interest. Apple pie has a thin layer of cheddar inside. Raspberry bars are enriched with coconut topping. Bannister walks a tightrope between sensible cooking and convenience, and she rarely falls. Sometimes, how things look outweighs the food itself. For the baker, this is particularly important. Dozens of books on cake decorating crowd the shelves, but Farrow has made a singular contribution with Decorating Cookies. In some cases, Farrow replicates complicated cake decorating ideas with rolled fondants. In other instances she uses simple icings and commercially available edible sugar decorations to turn ordinary flat cookies into sumptuous works of art with decidedly modern color palettes. Home cooks will be inspired by the book's color photographs to try their hands at Farrow's techniques. Serious scholars of French cooking will enjoy digging through Schehr and Weiss' anthology French Food, not for recipes but for its many revelations. Although a reader must soldier through articles couched in academic style and veiled in polysyllabic obfuscation, one can ferret out for cocktail-party gossip tidbits such as Brillat Savarin's borrowing heavily from an obscure earlier work, Grimod de la Reyniere's Almanac des Gourmands, for his now-legendary Physiology of Taste. Elsewhere in this heavily footnoted anthology is an amusing rumination on whether Belgium has a verifiable cultural identity.

Publisher's Weekly Review

In the spirit of James Beard, M.F.K. Fisher and Edna Lewis, this inspired work is at once a compendium of 255 recipes (including ancestral family recipes, accompanied by warm duotone family photos throughout) from the notebooks of Page, a major chef, and a lucid appeal for an American cooking tradition based on local products and the harvest calendar. Since opening their eponymous New York City restaurant in 1993, Page and Shinn have sought to give expression to Beard's famous pronouncement: "American food is anything you eat at home." Their cookbook abounds with beautifully simple, unpretentious dishes such as Sunflower Seed Pesto, Spring Mushroom and Sweet Pea Hash, and Toasted Angel Food Cake. Readers weary of recipes so elaborate they seem to require a sous-chef or conversely, tired supper-type cooking will appreciate Page's inventive yet straightforward approach. Although the chapters are arranged thematically, with sections devoted to such "basic" condiments as Apricot Ketchup and Maple-Bourbon Butter, they could just as well have been divided up by region. Tracing a path from their Midwestern childhood homes, where they were born into families of gifted amateur cooks, to the Bay Area kitchens of California and, finally, to their farm and vineyard on the North Fork of Long Island, the authors weave memories, thoughts on food and cooking, hints on technique and, of course, the recipes themselves into a seamless whole underscoring the point that superior home cooking calls for an awareness of the seasons and a relationship to the land. (May) Forecast: If Page and Shinn are as warm and appealing as their cookbook, their 13-city tour will inspire significant sales among home cooks looking to add a little zing to their meals. (c) Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved



Clam and Sweet Corn Chowder Every year at the chowder contest in Greenport, Long Island, we are saddened to note that there are fewer New England-style white chowders entered in the contest. We are both white chowder fans, and we make ours with littlenecks, one of the smallest of the hard-shell clams, which are usually under two inches across. Be sure they are alive when you buy them; their shells should be closed tightly. Use them the same day you purchase them. 5 slices bacon, diced (1/4-inch dice) 1 small yellow onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice 1 medium leek, cut into 1/4-inch dice 3 ribs celery, cut into 1/4-inch dice 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 fresh bay leaf 3 fresh thyme sprigs 4 cups Vegetable-Corn Stock (page 63) 3 ears sweet corn, kernels cut off the cobs (see Note) 3 cups peeled and diced white potatoes (1/2-inch dice) 36 littleneck clams, shucked and chopped, or 2 (8-ounce) jars chopped clams, drained 1 cup heavy cream Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 2 teaspoons paprika Cook the bacon in a large soup pot over medium heat until crisp. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat and add the onions, leeks, celery, garlic, and bay leaf to the pot. Continue to cook over medium heat until the vegetables are softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the thyme, stock, corn, and potatoes and simmer until the potatoes are tender, 7 to 10 minutes. Add the clams and cream and simmer until the clams are warmed through, 2 to 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Ladle the hot soup into bowls and garnish with the parsley and paprika. SERVES 6. Note: If you don't have the stock on hand, reserve the corn cobs for making it.Simply Roasted Chicken We roast our chickens at a high temperature to give them crackling-crisp skin and deep flavor. We have found that placing the bird on a roasting rack allows the heat to surround it and brown it evenly. 1 chicken, about 3 1/2 pounds 1/2 lemon, cut in half Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 fresh thyme sprig 1 fresh rosemary sprig 10 large fresh basil leaves Preheat the oven to 450 degreees F. Rub the inside of the bird with the cut lemon. Season inside and out with salt and pepper. Drop the herbs into the cavity of the bird and tie the bony ends of the legs together, covering the opening of the cavity. Twist the wing tips behind the thick part of the wings. Place the bird on a roasting rack on a baking sheet. Roast until the skin is golden and crackling crisp, 35 to 40 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees F and roast the bird for 25 to 30 minutes longer. Test the doneness of the bird by piercing the thickest part of the thigh with a thin-bladed knife. The juices should run clear. Transfer the bird to a cutting board and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes before carving. SERVES 2 to 3.Chocolate-Cherry Chunk Cookies The cookie version of chocolate-covered cherries. 5 ounces semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped 3 cups all-purpose flour 1 1/2 cups unsweetened cocoa powder 2 teaspoons cream of tartar 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened 11/4 cups granulated sugar I cup (packed) light brown sugar 3 large eggs 1/2 cup dried cherries 1/2 cup white chocolate chips Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Melt the chocolate in a double boiler over hot, not simmering, water. Set aside. Sift together the flour, cocoa powder, cream of tartar, baking powder, and salt into a medium bowl. In a large bowl, using an electric mixer, beat together the butter and both sugars on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Gradually beat in the melted chocolate. Beat in the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. On low speed, beat in the flour. Stir in the cherries and chips. The dough will be stiff. Form the dough into golf ball-size portions, flatten them between your palms, and place 1 inch apart on ungreased cookie sheets. Bake until the centers of the cookies are set, about 15 minutes. Cool on the cookie sheets on wire racks. MAKES 36 COOKIES. Excerpted from Recipes from Home by Barbara Shinn, David Page, Calvin Trillin All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.

Table of Contents

ForewordCalvin Trillin (X)
Introduction (XII)
The Pantry (1)
Soups, Chowders, and Stocks (29)
Salads, Fresh Relishes, and Slaws (69)
Vegetables (97)
Grains and Beans (133)
Fish and Shellfish (159)
Birds (207)
Meat (239)
Cheese (281)
Breads and Muffins (299)
The Canning Shelf (321)
Something Sweet (365)
Index (421)