Cover image for The modern vegetarian kitchen
The modern vegetarian kitchen
Berley, Peter.
Personal Author:
First edition.
Publication Information:
New York : Regan Books, [2000]

Physical Description:
xi, 450 pages : illustrations ; 24 cm
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Added Author:
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Material Type
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TX837 .B478 2000 Adult Non-Fiction Non-Fiction Area
TX837 .B478 2000 Adult Non-Fiction Open Shelf

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Peter Berley's mission is to show how the simple act of cooking food can enliven your senses and nourish your life--from going to the farmer's market and outfitting your kitchen with the simplest, most useful tools to learning techniques and sharing meals with friends and family. The much-admired former chef of Angelica Kitchen, one of New York City's finest restaurants, Berley takes you through the seasons, with more than two hundred sumptuous recipes that feature each ingredient at its peak, including:

Summer Corn and Vegetable Chowder Hearts of Romaine with Creamy Miso Dressing Baby Artichokes in White Wine, Lemon, and Herbs Fresh Asian-Style Whole-Wheat Noodles in Dashi Wild Mushroom Stew with Crispy Pan-Fried Tofu Wintry Root-Vegetable Risotto with Porcini Mushrooms Authentic Country French Sourdough Bread Coconut Cream Tart

A cooking teacher for many years, Berley has kept the needs of his students continually in mind in this book. The recipes are written to feature the basic techniques and background information needed to create wonderful meals with fresh vegetables, fruits, and grains. He truly inspires both novice and experienced cooks to understand what they are doing and why, to learn to work with the ingredients, and to apply their skills creatively. This wonderful book brings vegetarian cuisine to a new level.

Author Notes

Melissa Clark is a staff writer for the New York Times where she writes the popular column "A Good Appetite," and stars in a weekly complementary video series. The winner of James Beard and IACP Awards, she is a regular on Today and NPR The Splendid Table, The Leonard Lopate Show. Melissa earned an MFA in writing from Columbia. (Publisher Provided)

Reviews 3

Booklist Review

Vegetarian cooking appeals to those conscious of food's many physiological effects on the human body. Some follow a vegetarian diet out of fear; others embrace it joyfully, finding vegetarianism's principles deeply satisfying to more than merely physical hunger. But finding a useful, reliable, vegetarian cookbook can prove more daunting than clinging to a no-meat regimen at the Texas state fair. Some vegetarian cookbooks eschew meat and dairy products completely--no fish, no eggs, no cheese. Other books allow dairy products, following the rubric "If it doesn't look back at you, you may eat it." At the beginning of fall, when the nation's seasonal gardens are overflowing with their accustomed annual bounty of sweet corn, tomatoes, berries, squashes, root vegetables, and fruits, vegetarianism makes a very viable diet. Being vegetarian in February may not be as problematic as once it was, but it's still not a time to discover food's optimum flavors. The Modern Vegetarian Kitchen, by Peter Berley with Melissa Clark, follows vegetarian principles, but Berley readily concedes that not every person's constitution is equipped to follow this diet resolutely. Thus, he offers recipes that include meat substitutes such as tempeh and seitan, but he dresses them carefully to ensure a full complement of flavor components. His Seitan Bourguignonne contains virtually identical ingredients to its classic provincial French model but without beef and bacon. Similarly, except for the substitution of seitan for lamb, Berley's shepherd's pie could pass for a well-seasoned version of the genuine article. Berley's experiences with macrobiotic cookery show in his love of Japanese ingredients such as burdock root. Thus, he generates new audiences for ancient Eastern vegetables. Currently popular foods attract Berley's attention, too. Polenta, a North Italian staple of boiled cornmeal, gets a healthy twist by substituting millet for the customary cornmeal and mellowing out with pureed sweet potato. As a brunch presentation, Spinach-Mushroom Quiche's crust gains texture from oats and sesame seeds. The book wisely follows the seasons in order to take full advantage of vegetables at the height of their ripeness. This focus on flavor helps keep vegetarians on track and also helps decrease yearnings for foods outside the diet's strictures. Leave it to chef Stephan Pyles to accomplish the seemingly impossible. His Southwestern Vegetarian (with John Harrisson) takes the cuisine of a territory universally famed for whole hog barbecues and ox roasts and produces recipes observing vegetarianism's tenets. He achieves his goal by first reaching into the wealth of salsas produced through Mexican cooking's influence on the Southwest. Moles, both green and red, flavor a wealth of grilled vegetable combinations. Squash and corn provide backbone for a number of soups. Smoked salmon and horseradish mashed potatoes violate the strictest vegetarian rules, but the attraction of this combination can't be denied. Canyon Cowboy Beans with Mexican corn bread provide complete protein building blocks to ensure proper nutrition within vegetarian confines. The success of Pyles' cuisine relies on his talented sophistication in bringing together many traditions. Just the name Poblano-Dried Fruit Risotto Cakes with Green Mango-Habanero Jam bespeaks a symphonic genius in handling both flavors and culinary traditions. The tyro vegetarian, particularly the teenage one rebelling against the dominant "burger culture," will relish the irreverent tone of Evelyn Raab's delightfully illustrated The Clueless Vegetarian. Raab assumes the posture of a teacher whose audience knows virtually nothing about vegetarian cooking but who believe it may be an appropriate choice for their lives. Raab takes care to define terms and to present recipes that presuppose no prior cooking experience. Her recipe classification system, rendered in icons, will also attract the computer-minded young adult. Despite her simple approach, Raab's recipes reflect a range of cooking styles and cater to today's multiethnic tastes with an emphasis on Italian and Mexican dishes and such Eastern exotica as pad Thai. So eager is she to expand her readers' horizons that she gives extensive instructions on managing the intricacies of phyllo pastry, a base for many Middle Eastern appetizers and entrees. Vegans, the most disciplined of vegetarians, consume neither dairy products nor eggs. They have to watch their diets particularly carefully to avoid protein deficiencies. Myra Kornfeld explores this regimen in The Voluptuous Vegan, determined that such a diet need not mean bland cooking. Her Mushroom, French Lentil, and Chestnut Ragumakes a rich, satisfying entree, and she manages to create a shepherd's pie using tempeh and zucchini under a blanket of potatoes mashed with horseradish. Although some people are attracted by vegetarianism's ethical and health claims, others argue that the central principle of good eating is that foods be organic, raised without pesticides or chemically enhanced fertilizers. Jesse Ziff Cool's Your Organic Kitchen has recipes including red meats, but her emphasis on organic produce skews her toward a diet lower in meat use than customary. Her recipes, arranged by seasons, attract with smart, simple ideas such as enhancing ordinary creamed peas and potatoes with Gorgonzola and chives. When it comes to a beverage suitable for vegetarians to enjoy at mealtime, what could be more appropriate than wine? It's an ancient drink, its health benefits have been know since biblical times, it contains no animal products, and it's nearly universally available to adults. British oenophile Oz Clarke has produced a new primer on wine that combines some of the best approaches from previous books into a highly useful reference. Oz Clarke's Introducing Wine groups all wines into fifteen categories that define each one's major characteristics. Well-structured tables organize additional data for easy accessibility. Shunning the high-flown language of many books for the wine novice, Clarke teaches practical, useful terms and techniques that demystify without sacrificing pleasure. His approach benefits further from a nonexclusionary stance that embraces equally all the world's wines, not just those from France, Italy, and California. All but the most disciplined vegetarians relish sweets of any sort, especially desserts. Maria Bruscino Sanchez follows her two earlier treatises on Italian cakes and cookies with Sweet Maria's Italian Desserts. Although most dinners in Italy typically close with fresh fruit, the Italian kitchen has produced beloved dessert classics on the order of cannoli, cheesecake, and gelato. Visitors to Sicily remember fondly the pound cake and ricotta layers of cassata spiked with local liqueur and robed in dark chocolate. More spectacular still are those Italian cakes based on devastatingly rich chestnuts blended with cream and served with flourless cake turned ebony with massive amounts of bittersweet chocolate. The Italians have also perfected a dessert called semi-freddo, a "half-frozen" version of ice cream much less laborious to prepare at home. Sanchez's apricot-almond version may convert even the most obstinate gelato mavens. In similar vein, Bruce's Bakery Cookbook offers recipes from Bruce Zipes' eponymous Long Island bakery. Zipes makes his own riffs on standard dessert items. For example, he ensures an ultratender crumb in his pound cake by insisting on confectioners' sugar in the batter. His Linzer torte improves the Viennese original with a layer of fresh red raspberries. Irish Soda Bread, normally innocuous, secures significant texture from whole-wheat flour and a sprinkling of currants, not to mention a flavor boost from caraway seeds. Lemon Meringue Pie, an American favorite, has a layer of sponge cake between the rich filling and the airy meringue to keep the meringue from disintegrating as rapidly as it might otherwise.

Publisher's Weekly Review

A chef for seven years at the Angelica Kitchen, New York City's hip vegan restaurant, Berley focuses on how the act of cooking can nourish one's life in this (mostly) vegan cookbook. Emphasizing home-cooked meals as opposed to gourmet feasts, Berley articulates the principles and techniques behind each recipe. Based on fresh and seasonally available ingredients, the cookbook reads like a valentine to Berley's grandmother, who cooked and baked using foods from her organic garden. Although dashi, miso and tofu are becoming more familiar to American cooks, other ingredients he calls for, such as spelt, kombu and nabe mono, aren't as well known. It's impossible to appreciate Berley's world without making several special shopping tripsÄthere's always that one ingredient you can't get at the grocery store. Berley includes instructions for broths, roll pastas and bake breads using "wild" yeast. Following his recipes to the letter requires tremendous amounts of time, as well as patience. But his recipes reward: Roasted Red Peppers are sweeter and more luscious than anything bottled, Basil-Almond Pesto is sublime for having freshly peeled almonds, and Corn and Vegetable Chowder evokes a perfect summer afternoon. For vegans, vegetarians and interested cooks seeking to explore seasonal vegetarian cuisine, this book is a must have. Illustrations not seen by PW. (Sept.) (c) Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved

Library Journal Review

This is definitely a "back to basics" vegetarian cookbook with a unique twist. Berley, former chef and instructor at Angelica's Kitchen in New York, organizes his recipes first by type (e.g., soups, salads, pasta, and beans) and then by season, which this reviewer found to be extremely helpful. He also provides lots of background information and recommendations on ingredients, necessary utensils and appliances, and techniques. The recipes themselves are reminiscent of more traditional vegetarian cookbooks (such as Mollie Katzen's Moosewood titles) in that they are heartier and much less fancy than some of the recent vegetarian collections. As Berley points out in his introduction, even though these recipes are not all vegan, his book is still vegan-friendly since most of the dairy products are used as garnishes and can be eliminated. A great addition to any public library's cookbook collection.DDebra Mitts Smith, Jamaica Plain, MA (c) Copyright 2010. Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.



Modern Vegetarian Kitchen, The Chestnut Pasta with Porcini Mushrooms, Pumpkin, and Leeks 4 to 6 servings Solio is a town high in the Swiss Alps that is the nearest thing to heaven that I have ever seen. Locally harvested porcini mushrooms and chestnuts dry in the rafters of the ancient barns that line the winding narrow backstreets of this rustic little village. That was my inspiration for this autumnal dish. The dark, musky aroma and flavor of the dried mushrooms goes particularly well with the sweetness of the pumpkin and leeks. I also add red tomatoes to brighten the color and cut through the intense earthiness of this ragout. Chestnut flour is perishable, so make sure yours is fresh. It should smell and taste pleasingly sweet and nutty without any trace of bitterness. Store the flour tightly wrapped in the freezer. Ingredients For the Pasta: 2/3 cup chestnut flour 1 1/3 cups unbleached all-purpose or white bread flour, plus more for dusting 1/4 teaspoon sea salt 3 large eggs For the Ragout: 1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms 1 1/2 cups warm water 4 tablespoons unsalted butter or extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup chopped leeks, white and tender green parts 2 tablespoons chopped garlic 4 cups peeled and roughly chopped winter squash or pumpkin 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage 1 (28-ounce) can peeled tomatoes Coarse sea salt Freshly milled black pepper 1 tablespoon butter Freshly grated Parmesan cheese for garnish 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley for garnish Insructions 1. To make the pasta, mix the chestnut flour, 1 1/3 cups white flour, and salt in a bowl. Make a well in the center and crack the eggs into it. Beat the eggs with a fork and incorporate the flour from the sides of the bowl until a soft dough forms. 2. Scoop out the dough and place it on a lightly floured surface. Rinse off any flour stuck to your hands. There will probably be some flour clumps left in the bowl. Sift them through a fine strainer onto the dough and discard the scraps. Wash out the bowl. 3. Knead the dough for 15 minutes, adding additional flour if necessary, to form a smooth, firm, elastic dough. Wrap the dough in plastic and set aside to relax for 30 minutes at room temperature. (At this point it can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours.) 4. Divide the dough into four equal pieces. Work with one piece at a time, keeping the remaining dough covered with plastic wrap. Roll the dough on the counter with outstretched palms into a loose 2-foot-long cylinder the width of a thin cigar. You may need to mist the rolling surface with a spray bottle if you don't have enough friction to roll the dough. Cut off 1-inch long pieces of dough and roll them back and forth between your palms until they are approximately 3 inches long. Place the pasta on clean towels and continue to cut and roll until all the dough is used up. 5. While the pasta dries, make the ragout. Place the mushrooms in a bowl and cover with 1 1/2 cups warm water. Set them aside to soften. 6. In a heavy 3-quart saucepan or flameproof casserole over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the leeks and saute for 5 to 7 minutes, until they begin to color. Add the garlic, squash, and sage. Saute, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. 7. Gently massage the mushrooms between your fingers. Allow the grit to settle on the bottom of the bowl. Remove the mushrooms and chop them up. Strain off and reserve 1 cup of the soaking liquid. Be careful to stop before you reach the grit. 8. Place a food mill fitted with medium disk over the vegetables and pass the tomatoes with their juice directly into the pan. Add the chopped porcini and the reserved soaking liquid, raise the heat, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes, until the squash is tender and the sauce has thickened. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Keep warm. 9. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add 1 tablespoon salt. When the water returns to a boil, add the pasta and stir to prevent sticking. Cook for 6 to 8 minutes, until the pasta is al dente. Drain. 10. Transfer the pasta to a warm bowl and toss with 1 tablespoon butter. Toss again with the sauce. Serve with grated cheese and chopped parsley. Warm Lentil Salad with Sun-Dried Tomatoes 4 servings Lentils have been grown since 7000 B.C., making them one of the oldest cultivated legumes. They are indigenous to the southwestern region of Asia and southeastern Europe and are now an integral part of the cuisines of India, Eastern Europe, the Middle East, and the Mediterranean. Here, the addition of sun-dried tomatoes gives this dish a decidedly Mediterranean flavor. Ingredients 6 to 8 dry-pack sun-dried tomatoes 1 cup green lentils, sorted and rinsed Coarse sea salt 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 large red onion, finely diced 1 carrot, finely diced 1/2 celery rib, finely diced 1 garlic clove, minced Freshly squeezed juice of 1 lemon or 3 to 4 tablespoons red wine vinegar Freshly milled black pepper Chopped fresh parsley or cilantro for garnish Insructions 1. In a small saucepan, combine the tomatoes with water to cover. Bring to a boil, remove the pan from the heat, and set aside. 2. In a medium saucepan, bring 2 quarts water to a boil. Add the lentils and boil, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt and continue to boil for 10 to 15 minutes, until the lentils are tender but still hold their shape. Drain, transfer the lentils to a mixing bowl, and toss them with 1 tablespoon of the oil. 3. In a heavy skillet over medium heat, warm the remaining oil. Add the onion, carrot, and celery, and cook, stirring often, until tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 2 minutes longer. Stir the vegetables into the lentils. 4. Drain the tomatoes, slice them into quarters, and add them to the lentil mixture. 5. Season the salad with lemon juice or vinegar, add salt and pepper to taste, and garnish with chopped parsley. Serve. Modern Vegetarian Kitchen, The . Copyright © by Peter Berley. Reprinted by permission of HarperCollins Publishers, Inc. All rights reserved. Available now wherever books are sold. Excerpted from The Modern Vegetarian Kitchen by Peter Berley, Melissa Clark All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.

Table of Contents

List of Illustrationsp. ix
Acknowledgmentsp. x
Introductionp. 1
Welcome to Your Kitchenp. 9
Equipment Essentialsp. 11
Pantry Essentialsp. 19
Soups and Stewsp. 25
Stocks and Brothsp. 29
Seasonal Miso Soupsp. 37
Vegetable and Bean Soupsp. 42
Hearty Stewsp. 61
Seasonal Saladsp. 73
Springp. 77
Summerp. 82
Autumnp. 86
Winterp. 90
Vegetablesp. 95
Spring Vegetablesp. 98
Summer Vegetablesp. 105
Mushroomsp. 112
Root Vegetables and Winter Squashp. 114
Cruciferous Vegetables and Greensp. 128
Pastap. 141
Hot Pasta Dishesp. 147
Cold Pasta Dishesp. 170
Whole Grains, Polenta, Risotto, and Porridgep. 181
Cooking Methodsp. 184
Grain Saladsp. 187
Pilafs and Grain Side Dishesp. 194
Polentasp. 200
Seasonal Risottosp. 206
Croquettes and Hearty Grain Dishesp. 212
Porridgesp. 220
Beans and Pulsesp. 225
Cooking Methodsp. 228
Dips and Spreadsp. 231
Bean Saladsp. 238
Hearty Bean Dishesp. 243
Tofu, Tempeh, and Seitan: Protein-Rich Canvasesp. 259
Tofup. 263
Tempehp. 277
Seitanp. 288
Breadsp. 303
Flatbreadsp. 306
Commercial Yeasted Breadsp. 311
Sourdough Breadsp. 322
Quickbreadsp. 349
Condiments and Saucesp. 355
Dessertsp. 393
Cakesp. 398
Pies, Tarts, and Fruit Dessertsp. 403
Puddingsp. 421
Brownies and Cookiesp. 426
Seasonal Menus for Lunch and Dinnerp. 430
Sourcesp. 434
Suggested Inspirational Readingp. 436
Indexp. 438