Cover image for Arab dress : a short history : from the dawn of Islam to modern times
Arab dress : a short history : from the dawn of Islam to modern times
Stillman, Yedida Kalfon, 1946-1998.
Publication Information:
Leiden Boston : Brill, 2000.
Physical Description:
xxix, 240 pages : illustrations ; 24 cm.
Format :


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GT1380 .S75 2000 Adult Non-Fiction Non-Fiction Area

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Hilary Putnam has been convinced for some time that the present situation in philosophy calls for revitalization and renewal; in this latest book he shows us what shape he would like that renewal to take. Words and Life offers a sweeping account of the sources of several of the central problems of philosophy, past and present, and of why some of those problems are not going to go away. As the titles of the first four parts in the volume--"The Return of Aristotle," "The Legacy of Logical Positivism," "The Inheritance of Pragmatism," and "Essays after Wittgenstein"--suggest, many of the essays are concerned with tracing the recent, and the not so recent, history of these problems.

The goal is to bring out what is coercive and arbitrary about some of our present ways of posing the problems and what is of continuing interest in certain past approaches to them. Various supposedly timeless philosophical problems appear, on closer inspection, to change with altered historical circumstances, while there turns out to be much of permanent value in Aristotle's, Peirce's, Dewey's, and Reichenbach's work on some of the problems that continue to exercise us.

A unifying theme of the volume as a whole is that reductionism, scientism, and old-style disenchanted naturalism tend to be obstacles to philosophical progress. The titles of the final three parts of the volume--"Truth and Reference," "Mind and Language," and "The Diversity of the Sciences"--indicate that the sweep of the problems considered here comprehends all the fundamental areas of contemporary analytic philosophy. Rich in detail, the book is also grand in scope, allowing us to trace the ongoing intellectual evolution of one of the most significant philosophers of the century.

Author Notes

Yedida Kalfon Stillman was Professor of History and Near Eastern Languages at the University of Oklahoma.

Reviews 1

Choice Review

In this illustrated survey of Arab attire, the author focuses on clothing styles for Arabs in different historical periods and geographical areas. The important issue of ethnic, religious, and linguistic terms is discussed early on to clarify the cultural identities of the people described. An introductory paragraph on "Arabs" was essential. Stillman discusses clothing worn by non-Muslims in Arab Muslim regions, with an emphasis on Jewish minorities. The chapter on modest dress, often called "veiling," will interest readers because this form of attire is related to other apparel. The chapter on modern dress is too short. Sources used are manuscripts, texts, published observations, art, archaeological evidence, and ethnographic collections. The volume contains a bibliographic essay, a separate bibliography, a long index, and many illustrations. Graduate students and above. L. Beck; Washington University

Table of Contents

Editor's prefacep. XI
Acknowledgmentsp. XV
List of Platesp. XIX
List of Figuresp. XXXI
A note on stylep. XXXIII
Introductionp. 1
1. Pre-Islamic Arabia and the Early Ummap. 7
Arab Clothing Before the Rise of Islamp. 7
The Time of the Prophet and Early Islamp. 9
Early Islamic Laws and Customs Regarding Clothingp. 22
2. The Evolution of the Islamic Vestimentary System under the Great Caliphatesp. 29
The Trend toward Luxury under the Umayyadsp. 31
Early Attempts at Differentiating Muslim and Non-Muslim Dressp. 39
The Beginnings of the Institutions of Khil'a and Tirazp. 40
The Emergence and Consolidation of an Islamic Fashion under the 'Abbasidsp. 41
Dress Protocol at the 'Abbasid Courtp. 48
The Economics of Clothingp. 49
The Clothing of Commoners and Various Social Groupsp. 50
Imposition of Dress Regulations for Non-Muslimsp. 52
The Apogee of Medieval Haute Couture under the Fatimidsp. 53
The Geniza: A Unique Source for Islamic Attire in the Fatimid Periodp. 55
3. The Arab East under the Turkish Dynasties of the Later Middle Ages and Early Modern Times: Saljuqs, Ayyubids, Mamluks, and Ottomansp. 62
The Clothing of the Military Elitep. 62
The Clothing of Other Strata of Societyp. 71
Female Attirep. 75
General Trends in Non-Muslim Dressp. 83
The Ottoman Period (To Early Modern Times)p. 84
4. The Muslim West: North Africa and Medieval Spainp. 86
Pre-Islamic Foundations of Maghrebi Costumep. 86
Maghrebi Costume During the Early and High Middle Agesp. 89
Medieval Andalusian Attirep. 90
The Berber Empires and Their Successor Statesp. 93
From the End of the Middle Ages to Modern Timesp. 99
5. The Laws of Differentiation and the Clothing of Non-Muslimsp. 101
The Origin and Evolution of the Pact of 'Umar and Ghiyar in the Early Islamic Centuriesp. 101
The Trend Toward Stricter Enforcement and Regularizationp. 107
The Apogee of Ghiyar Regulations and Enforcement Under The Mamluksp. 110
Regional Variation in Late Medieval North Africap. 113
Ghiyar in Early Modern Times: The Lingering Authority of Custom and the Impact of Increasing European Penetrationp. 116
6. The Opulent World of Tiraz and Precious Textilesp. 120
The Term Tirazp. 120
The Origins of the Tiraz Institutionp. 122
The Early Development of the Tiraz Institution under the Umayyadsp. 124
Full Scale Development of the Tiraz Institution under the 'Abbasidsp. 125
The Tiraz Institution under the Fatimidsp. 128
Tiraz and Robes of Honor under Ayyubids and Mamluksp. 133
7. Veiling in the Islamic Vestimentary Systemp. 138
Veiling in Early Islamp. 139
Veiling Under the Great Caliphates and the Successor Military Dynastiesp. 142
Evidence for How Medieval Veils Actually Lookedp. 146
Modern Timesp. 150
Modernization, the Early Arab Women's Movement, and Unveilingp. 153
The Modern Resurgence of Veiling: Hijab Old and Newp. 157
8. Modern Timesp. 161
9. The Study of Arab Clothing: A Bibliographical Epiloguep. 175
The Early Pioneer Studiesp. 175
The Jahili Period and Early Islamp. 177
The Great Caliphatesp. 178
The Turkish Military Dynastiesp. 180
Late Medieval Islamic Spain and North Africap. 182
The Ottoman Period in the Arab Worldp. 182
Twentieth-Century Ethnographic Studiesp. 183
The Jews of the Arabic Worldp. 186
Other Religious and Ethnic Minorities of the Arab Worldp. 189
Jewelryp. 190
Abbreviations of Journals and Encyclopediasp. 192
Archival and Manuscripts Sourcesp. 193
Bibliographyp. 196
Indexp. 215
Plates 1-70
Figures 1-11